Surfing

He'enalu, or surfing, is defined as "the act or sport of riding the surf, as on a surfboard." But to surfers, it is much more than that. It isn't just a hobby or an activity to pass the time. It's a connection between a surfer and the ocean; an outlet for stress and an inlet for satisfaction. Most importantly, it's a way of life.

"Out of the water, I am nothing." These words come from the man who popularized the art of surfing, Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku, better known as "Duke." He grew up on the outskirts of Waikiki and developed his water skills at Waikiki Beach. In 1912, Duke qualified for the U.S. Olympic swimming team and was the first person inducted into both the Swimming Hall of Fame and the Surfing Hall of Fame.

In ancient Hawai'i, surfing was known as the "Sport of Kings." The ali'i, or chiefs, had certain reefs and beaches that only they could use. Dropping into the same wave as a chief was kapu, or taboo, and was punishable by death. Only ali'i were allowed longer boards that were up to 24 feet in length, whereas commoners used boards that were only half that size. All surfboards were wooden, and all were extremely heavy.

Today, surfboards are much lighter and easier to maneuver. Most boards are now made of polyurethane or polystyrene foam, and fall into one of two categories: shortboards, which are five to seven feet long, and longboards, which are eight feet or longer. Longboards are the typical choice for beginners because their length, wider surface and thickness give them much more stability than a shortboard. Most professional surfers use shortboards, and watching them rip is an experience like no other.

With some of the world's most famous surf spots, Hawai'i truly is the surfing capital of the world. The island of Oahu alone boasts more than 150 surf spots, and the infamous North Shore is home to many of these. The best time of the year to surf in Oahu is during the winter months, from November through March. Professional surf contests, such as the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the O'Neill World Cup of Surfing and the Billabong Pipeline Masters are held annually during this period.

If you're gutsy enough to brave the waters, take an experienced surfer or surf instructor with you and make sure there is always a lifeguard on duty. Otherwise, watching pros rip the waves should satisfy your surf craving.

Oahu is blanketed with beautiful beaches, but its North Shore is the ultimate destination for surfers.

Oahu's Top Surf Spots:

Sunset Beach Park - Sunset Beach Park, located at 59-104 Kamehameha Highway, is a popular surf spot. Waves at Sunset Beach reach 20 feet during the winter; summer swells are often not too far behind. But the fun doesn't disappear when the water is flat, because Sunset Beach is also a great place for snorkeling and swimming.

Ehukai Beach Park - Ehukai Beach Park, better known as the "Banzai Pipeline," is another great spot. Located at 59-337 Kenui Road, this beach is home to some of the world's most spectacular and treacherous waves; they are steep, powerful and incredibly fast. When they break on the shallow reef, it can be very dangerous. Ehukai is not for beginners.

Waimea Bay Beach Park - The same can be said about Waimea Bay Beach Park, which is located at 61-031 Kamehameha Highway. Here, you will find the largest – and often scariest – rideable waves in the whole world. The inshore break alone can hit 12 feet while the actual waves themselves are more than 30 feet high. If that isn't intimidating enough, the strong rip current can easily pull even the most experienced swimmer far into the deep blue.

Kewa'ena Beach - Located just between Waimea Bay and Ehukai, the waves at Kewa'ena Beach also get hazardously huge during the fall and winter months. Snorkeling and other modest water activities should be done only when the ocean is very calm.

Ali'i Beach Park - Ali'i Beach Park, at 66-167 Haleiwa Road, is probably the best popular North Shore spot for the beginning surfer or visitor. Though the waves break over a dangerously shallow reef, the small, protected bay on the beach's south side is perfect for swimming.

- Lennie Omalza