With its tropical climate and year-round growing season, Hawai'i's volcanic soil yields a rainbow of fruits and vegetables. Pumpkin, papaya, heart of palm, and, of course, pineapple are just a few crops grown by Hawai'i's farmers. Among foods produced in Hawai'i, coffee, chocolate, and macadamia nuts likely come to mind. But on your visit to the islands, be sure to also sample the free-range eggs, grass-fed beef, and hand-made cheeses produced by Hawai'i's farmers and ranchers.
But remember: you're on an island in the middle of a vast ocean. Before many of these products become available to consumers, they must travel to the mainland for processing. Small family-owned farms in Hawai'i have difficulty obtaining the expensive equipment needed for food processing. The North Shore Cattle Company is currently the only ranch on Oahu providing locally raised beef. And Oahu's lone dairy farm, the Naked Cow Dairy in Waianae, is awaiting the arrival of equipment from Holland that will finally allow them to process and pasteurize their milk, as well as control their prices.
The best way to try a variety of local products while supporting Hawai'i's farmers and ranchers is to visit one of Oahu's many farmers' markets. The largest and perhaps most popular of these is the Kapiolani Community College (KCC) Farmers' Market, sponsored by the Hawai'i Farm Bureau Federation. It takes place every Saturday morning from 7:30 to 11 am and features over 50 vendors selling everything from artisan breads and jams to orchids and fried green tomatoes. If possible, hop over to the Big Island and explore the Hilo Farmers Market. Every Wednesday and Saturday, more than 200 vendors and crafters pack the streets of downtown Hilo "from dawn till its gone."
If you want to enjoy an artfully prepared meal in a fine restaurant that uses local, organic ingredients, you've got plenty of options, although this wasn't always the case. In August of 1991, a group of accomplished chefs came together to create Hawai'i Regional Cuisine, to promote locally grown foods inspired by Hawai'i's diverse ethnic palettes, rather than imported products. The goal of this organization is to make cuisine a reflection of the community, strengthening the connection between farmers and chefs. The result is a win/win for both: farmers understand and grow what chefs need, ensuring that their crops have a market, while chefs base their menu on what farmers can grow, allowing them to offer customers the freshest local ingredients available. You can experience Hawai'i Regional Cuisine throughout the islands, namely in the restaurants of some of the original 12 chefs including Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, Sam Choy, and Peter Merriman.
Another way to experience locally grown food is right on the farm. Agritourism is a rapidly growing industry in Hawai'i, helping farms increase revenue and providing visitors with a behind-the-scenes look at rural culture. There are currently more than 75 agricultural tourism operations in the state, supported by a newly-created Hawai'i AgriTourism Association. While visiting the Big Island, enjoy a stay at the Cedar House Bed and Breakfast and Coffee Farm in Kona. Go off the beaten path to Tropical Farms on the Windward side of Oahu, jump on the bus tour, and enjoy scrumptious macadamia nut samples. On Maui, take a walking tour through the Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm and learn about the calming effects of lavender as well as its many varieties. Also check out the Tedeschi Vineyards, but don't expect your friends to go crazy for the pineapple and passion fruit wine: wine made from local fruits is fun and interesting, but can't compete in quality with that made in real wine-producing regions.
Also contributing to the locally grown food and sustainable agriculture in general is the Oahu chapter of Slow Food USA, Slow Food O'ahu, which organizes dozens of fun events that feature various types of local food. Its website includes a list of restaurants that serve and support the Hawaiian Regional Cuisine.
Whether from a market, a four-star restaurant, or fresh from the farm, sampling locally grown foods will increase your understanding of the Hawaiian culture, create lasting memories of your stay in the islands, and whet your appetite for another visit.
Resources
- Farm Visits, Organizations, and Publications:
- • Hawai'i AgriTourism Association: This organization supports local producers who open their operations to farm visits. See the link on the left Farms and Ag Tours for a list of farms on each island. www.hiagtourism.org
- • Slow Food: The Slow Food USA organization is made up of separate "conviviums" or local organizations that support locally-grown foods. Those active in Hawai'i are:
- Slow Food O'ahu: Organizes various fun events promoting local food, such as "Luncheon in a Tomato Patch." Click on the Local Food link for a list of restaurants on Oahu that serve Hawai'i Regional Cuisine. www.slowfoodoahu.org
- Slow Food KCC: This is another Oahu-based convivium, comprised of students and faculty of the Kapiolani Community College (KCC), which is well-known in Hawai'i for its culinary program. slowfoodkcc.blogspot.com/
- Slow Food Maui: slowfoodmaui.org
- Slow Food, Big Island: www.slowfoodhawaii.org
- Slow Food, Kauai: slowfoodkauai.blogspot.com
- • Edible Hawaiian Islands, www.ediblecommunities.com/hawaiianislands: The publication Edible Hawaiian Islands is a good resource and also maintains a blog full of all kinds of interesting food-related reports and events at ediblehawaiianislands.blogspot.com
- • Farmers Markets: The publication Edible Hawaiian Islands provides an updated list of farmers markets across the islands in each publication. See the current list at www.ediblecommunities.com/hawaiianislands/farmers-markets/farmers-markets.htm
