A shrill voice calls from the corner of the platform. Somewhere in the distance, a group of voices answer back. Slowly, as the chanting continues, a line of people dressed in brightly printed cloth enter, greenery wrapped around their heads, wrists, and ankles. Solemnly they stand in front of you for a moment before lifting their arms to begin dancing. They stamp their feet, clap their hands and chests, and yell gutturally. What is this?, you ask yourself. You came to watch the hula, not tribal chanting.
Unknown to most people, hula was not always the hip-swaying, ukelele-playing performance often shown in the movies. Although no one knows the beginnings of the sacred dance, Hawaiians believe their gods and goddesses taught the hula to humans as a means of worship. Like other ancient cultures, Hawaiians passed on their genealogies, myths, and beliefs orally, thus making the hula extremely important to them.
Though modern hula, or hula 'auana, relies more on the movements and positions of the dancer's body to tell the story, traditional hula, or hula kahiko, focuses more on the chant, or mele. Some say that this is because visitors who watch the hula want to understand the story, which is easier to figure out by watching the dancers than by learning the Hawaiian language. With that in mind, you can see that the change from traditional to modern dancing occurred when missionaries first settled Hawai'i in the 1800s.
Not only did the emphasis on storytelling change, but also the clothing. Hula kahiko dancers wore very little during the dance, and each piece of the costume was sacred. Men wore loincloths called malo, and women wore a pa'u, or wrapped skirts with no tops. All wore leis of flowers, shells, animal teeth, or greenery that were so sacred, they could not be worn after the dancers ended the performance. Missionaries tried unsuccessfully to stamp out the hula completely, calling it the work of the devil, but King Kalakaua brought it back by forming his own helau, or hula schools.
Missionaries compromised with the Hawaiians by asking them to cover themselves when they danced, thus creating the costumes most often seen today. Women wear either the flowing, printed dresses called mu'umu'us, or wrapped skirts and tops. Men still wear loincloths when dancing the traditional hula, though they cover more than they once did, but in modern dancing they will wear pants and printed shirts.
Along with the change to modest, modern clothing, and the greater emphasis on the dance rather than the mele, Hawaiians also adopted Western instruments and musical styles. Moving away from the chanting that harkens battles and other earthy activities, hula 'auana songs became more lilting, flowing, and entertaining—what you normally find in modern movies.
Though the modern hula can be performed anywhere, the traditional hula, being sacred, was performed at holy sites called heiau. These sites ranged from simple rock platforms to complexes with multiple buildings, altars, and carved idols surrounded by stone fences. Most heiau have been lost to time and cultural changes, but you can still visit a few during your Hawai'i stay. Hawaiians do ask that visitors show respect upon approaching a heiau. Keep in mind that these structures have endured hundreds of years.
Luckily, the traditional hula did not die out completely. It went underground after the arrival of the missionaries, and saw a resurgence in public popularity during the Hawaiian Renaissance in the 1970s. Today, dancers can learn both kahiko and 'auana hula styles, allowing tourists to view both as well. If you want to see traditional hula, though, skip the tourist-filled luaus, and scout out something more low-key. Below are the best places to see authentic traditional and modern hula.
Hula Performances:
Kuhio Beach Park Stage - (Duke Kahanamoku statue on Kalakaua Avenue): Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday at 6:30pm (6 pm November through January). Dance performances begin with a torch-lighting ceremony. Because varying halau dance here, the show changes nightly, so come more than once. Admission is Free. For current information, call 808-843-8002.
Plaza Lawn at Waikiki Beach Walk - on Lewers Ave: FREE hula shows every Tuesday at 4:30 pm. The show is under the direction of Blaine Kamalani Kia, a well-known kumu hula (hula teacher). www.waikikibeachwalk.com/play_details.aspx?playmonth=2/1/2010&playid=33.
Ala Moana Center Stage - the weekly Keiki (children's) Hula Show is performed on Sunday mornings at 10 AM. Performers vary. All shows are Free. www.alamoanacenter.com/centertainment.htm.
Halekulani's House Without a Key - This dining area at the Halekulani Resort offers daily hula performances at sunset by two former Miss Hawai'is, Kanoe Miller and Debbie Nakanelua. www.halekulani.com/dining/house_without_a_key/.
Free Hula Lessons - Available at 10am and 12pm every day at Big Kahuna's Marketplace on the 3rd floor of the Waikiki Shopping Plaza. www.ambassadorwaikiki.com/ThingsToSeeAndDo/Free.
Halau O Kehuki - A school that offers several public performances throughout the year. Check its calendar for more information: www.edithkanakaolefoundation.org/halau/calendar.
Polynesian Cultural Center - Though touristy, the PCC show-coordinators strive for authenticity. Not only that, but they show dances from all over the Pacific Islands, such as Tahiti, Samoa, and New Zealand. You can spend the afternoon touring the complex, then kick back for an evening luau. www.polynesia.com
Hula Competitions:
The best way to see authentic hula is through events where different halau compete for various prizes.
The Merri Monarch Festival - The Superbowl of hula competitions, this week-long festival is held the week after Easter. It honors King Kalakaua, the man who kept the hula alive during the settling of the missionaries. If you can make the actual even, held in Hilo on the Big Island, it's a wonderful experience. If you're on Oahu, turn on the TV and tune in. You can even watch it on YouTube. www.merriemonarch.com.
Moku O Keawe International Festival - A four-day celebration of hula and the arts of hula held annually in November at Waikoloa Beach Resort, Island of Hawaii. www.mokif.com/home.
World Invitational Hula Festival - Three-day event held in November on Oahu at the Waikiki Shell. www.worldhula.com.
King Kamehameha Hula Competition - Held in June at the Neal S. Blaisdell Center Arena, Honolulu. www.hulacomp.com.
Prince Lot Hula Festival - Held in July at Moanalua Gardens, Honolulu. Admission is Free. www.mgf-hawaii.org/HTML/Hula/princelothulafestival.htm.
Sacred Sites:
If you're more interested in the sacred historical sites than the dancing, hike over to the following places. Just remember: view the heiau from the exterior, no climbing on the rock walls, and even small offerings such as coins or incense can cause irreparable damage.
Kane Aki Heiau - Dedicated to Lono, the god of harvest and fertility, this site has been completely restored. Open to the public Tuesday through Sunday, 10am to 2pm. www.hawaiiweb.com/oahu/sites_to_see/kaneaki_heiau.htm.
Keaiwa Heiau - Now a state recreational area, this heiau was once a healing site. You can visit the heiau, then go further into the park for camping, picnicking, and hiking. Hours: April 1 to Labor Day from 7am to 7:45pm; after Labor Day to March 31 from 7am to 6:45pm. Admission is Free. www.hawaiistateparks.org/parks/oahu/keaiwa.cfm.
Pu'u o Mahuka Heiau - This state historic site is one of the largest heiau on Oahu, covering close to two acres. Open daily during daylight hours. Admission is Free. www.hawaiistateparks.org/parks/oahu/puuomahuka.cfm.
Ulopo Heiau - Many believe this state monument to be the oldest and largest on Oahu, and legend says it was built by the mythical menehune (dwarf-sized craftsmen). Open daily during daylight hours. Admission is Free. www.hawaiistateparks.org/parks/oahu/ulupo.cfm.
